Bluewater Gypsies: Samaná - "Santa Barbara de Samana," Dominican Republic

Samaná - "Santa Barbara de Samana", Dominican Republic
(April 2-5, 2013)

The jewel that almost wasn't...Samaná.

We had already checked out of the Dominican Republic and, against our better judgment, opted not to list any additional stopping ports on our despacho as we were planning to make a nonstop passage to Puerto Rico.

Approaching the northeast end of the island, a very rugged and unforgiving stretch of coast with limited places to seek shelter, we found the seas and winds had kicked up and were once again not favorable. With the choice to either push forward into the dark wicked waters of the Mona Passage or seek shelter in Samaná Bay, we chose the latter.

As we neared the coast, we realized Samaná had a smell even more different than Luperon, very earthy but with tones of charcoal instead of perfume. Still a nice smell, but very different from the other side of the island.

After making the turn south, we traveled another 3 hours before reaching Samaná Bay. It was a DARK night with no moon. Upon entering the bay, boats were everywhere, even in the channel, and not one anchor light to be seen. Being in unfamiliar territory and stressing due to a large sailboat whirling about at high speed through the anchorage with no lights on created a very tense situation for Jim and myself where not so nice words were exchanged. In the end, we found a suitable location to drop the hook, made up and nodded off for a brief nap.

No one got much sleep that night, but at sunrise we were all awake and ready to check out our surroundings.

The Dominican entry officials came out to our boats and ordered the Captains to shore to meet with the head Customs/Immigration officer, who was none too happy we had checked out and were wanting to come back into her country. Jim and Les took a tongue lashing, paid the re-entry fees and headed back to the boats. It was time to see the town.

Samaná has a very Mediterranean feel and seems more cutting-edge than Luperon, with locals sporting fashionable jogging togs while running the waterfront trails early each morning and then heading off to work in somewhat professional attire. Where as the Luperon locals are predominantly Dominican and of Spanish decent, the Samaná locals are African American slave decendants who refer to themselves as Samaná Americans. Another reflection that this is a very large island with diverse cultures.

After some window shopping and making a stop at the local bakery, we were drawn into a man's curio shop and led to the back where we all copped a squat and enjoyed his bottle of Mamajuana (a concoction of rum, red wind and honey that has been soaked in a bottle of tree bark and herbs). Catching quite the buzz, we were off to explore the wares of the boardwalk kiosks.

Boardwalk vendors

We hired a motoconcho/guagua to take us to the top of a steep hill to check out a local village and more shops and then worked our way back down the hill to spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the boardwalk, enjoying more drinks.

motoconcho/guagua

Jeremie, no doubt scoping the area for a good spot to do handstand pushups

Les, no doubt scoping the area for hot Dominican women
who have a large family he can help support

Sherry and Jim no doubt supporting yet another bottle of Presidente

Looks like someone has had enough to drink

We were joined by some gentlemen selling prawns
who remembered us from Luperon

Our view from the waterfront

The Famous Bridges to Nowhere of Samaná ends at Cayo Vigia Island. We were warned of pickpockets, vendors not giving proper change and the potential to be robbed when reaching Cayo Vigia Island when crossing the Bridges to Nowhere. We had no problems, but were here only for a few days to wait for the next weather window. We did not cross the bridges; however, that was due to time constraints, not fear. We found Samaná to be quite beautiful and only felt a lack of safety while at the dinghy dock. The same safety rules apply here as they do anywhere you travel to reduce your chances of becoming a crime victim.