Georgetown

Georgetown (January 19-February 14, 2013)
Red Shanks (February 14-February 19, 2013)
Kidd Cove (February 19-21, 2013)

No matter on which side of Elizabeth Harbour you anchor or what the weather, the party is always on in Georgetown.  With it being only a one-mile dinghy ride from the Georgetown side of the Harbour to Stocking Island, it is easy to make many trips across the Harbour every day. 

Each day begins with the 8:00 a.m. Cruiser's Net, hosted by fellow cruiser Herman on s/v White Wing.   Here, we get our daily weather update, news in the Harbour, pleas for help with boat projects, “buy, sell or trade” and a brief introduction of newbies to the harbor and farewells to those departing.

Immediately following the Net, the whir of dinghy motors is heard as most head to Volleyball Beach for morning yoga.  Then, it is back to the boat for our 4-hour work day of chores before heading back to Volleyball beach for afternoons filled with volleyball, bocce ball, water walk exercise, basket weaving, jewelry making, games of Scrabble, Texas Holdem Poker and Trivia Pursuit along with many choices of interesting lectures on advise to those going further south, those planning to visit Cuba, the history of Georgetown and healthy living, to mention a few.  The list of things to do is endless.

  

While here, we were invited to more parties and social events than we could possibly attend at the Chat-N-Chill, St. Francis Marina, Queen's Dock, Big D's, Monument Beach, Hamburger Beach, Volleyball Beach, and Sand Dollar Beach.  Every day and every night was something special.  We loved every minute of it, but top all that off with the annual regatta activities and it became exhausting.

Monument Beach on Stocking Island

Hamburger Beach

Sand Dollar Beach

Kidd Cove

It was here that we had to say "Goodbye" to our friends David and Pat, on s/v Sanctuary.  We had met them while in Marathon, Florida and reconnected as we came into Chubb Cay, where we checked into the Bahamas.  We had no idea the impact their departure would have on us as we had immensely enjoyed traveling with them, planning our days, socializing, meeting new friends, enjoying potluck dinners and celebrating holidays as well as carefully checking weather and planning each passage from island to island.  So much so that we hadn't given it a second thought they would be leaving soon to head back to their home in Florida.  The day they departed hit us really hard and it took quite a few days to get into our new groove, but we finally did.

Pat and David Tye

A heavy cold front was to come in on Valentine's Day, with very high winds and an ocean surge that we knew all too well was going to make for a very uncomfortable rough ride in Elizabeth Harbour, so we pulled anchor and headed for Red Shanks, the calmest of the anchorages, about 3 miles south of Volleyball Beach and Kidd Cove.  We thought we would only be there a day or two, but once there it hit us that we had been running nonstop for the preceding month and it felt great to take a break from it all.  So, a day or two turned into six days of peace and quiet with a dozen or so other boaters seeking shelter from the weather.

Heading to the Atlantic side of the St. Francis Resort

Loving the day!!!  - Atlantic Coast off of St. Francis Resort

The Atlantic winds were blowing on the back side of St. Francis Resort

Nature's wind direction indicator

Pat and David heading back to Elizabeth Harbour

There are several paths on which to cross the island
from Elizabeth Harbour to the Atlantic Ocean

Jim returns to the Elizabeth Harbour shore

The trail disappeared on our way to the Monument

Overlooking the anchorage

Waterway leading to hurricane holes and Jacques Cousteau Mystery Cave

Boats are everywhere

Having experienced 5 weeks of pulling anchor and moving from one side of Elizabeth Harbour to the other seeking calmer anchorage due to the continuous clocking winds, we were more than ready to move on.  We moved more times than I can count, from Kidd Cove to Volleyball Beach to Red Shanks and Sand Dollar Beach, back and forth, again and again.  We witnessed many boats dragging anchor, several emergency situations, some things that don't warrant mentioning here and even the rescue of a little dog that went overboard during some bad weather.  With hundreds of boaters anchored together, something was always happening.

As we planned our departure, we came to understand why Georgetown is referred to as "Chicken Harbor."  Two-thirds of the hundreds of boats here intend to, but never make it any further south than Georgetown.

While we met some great people here and we most wanted to sail south with them, after 5 weeks and 3 times of refueling, lugging water to the boat and provisioning to leave, we gave up the ghost on the other boaters and left the island to sail it alone.

When sailing, you are never really alone as no more than an hour into our travels, we met up with sailing vessels Hali, Vivachy and Trudy Mae, 3 other sailboats heading to our same destination.

Next stop, Calabash Bay, Long Island.

Little Farmers Cay

Little Farmers Cay  (January 17-19, 2013)

There were two anchorages in Little Farmers Cay.  We opted to anchor at the Farmers Cay Yacht Club.  The first night, we stayed on one of Little Jeff’s mooring balls across the channel from the Yacht Club.  Little did we know there would be two contenders for anchorages in such a small space.  The cost was $20/night.  Funny thing was Little Jeff and another guy came out to the boat and after diving the mooring ball, told Jim they needed him to let down the anchor as they were going to set it.  Isn’t the purpose of a mooring ball so you don’t have to set your anchor?  David on s/v Sanctuary had already dove his mooring ball and put a line from the bow through the eye at the bottom of the mooring.  At that point, we all slept well though were not happy to pay for poor mooring.  Next day, we moved to the other side of the anchorage, which was better mooring for the same price.

Farmers Cay Yacht Club

We had lunch at the yacht club.  The pan-seared snapper was tasty, but full of little bones so somewhat of a challenge to eat.

Because the island was small, we decided to take the dinghy all the way around the island.  As we were rounding the southern part of the island, we took notice of some coral heads, decided to go exploring and were pleasantly surprised.  This exploration turned out to be quite magnificent as it was a fairly large coral field located in 5-10 feet of water.   The coral was teaming with life with bright colored sea fans, large brain coral and numerous large lionfish.  Unfortunately, Jim didn’t bring his spear so we were unable to get dinner.

Yet again, we were met with a destruction of dreams.  While on our dinghy adventure, we came across a beautiful compound that looked like it had been 90% completed and then went belly up.

Someone's dream

 

The sunsets here were stunning and always enjoyed with a glass of wine.

Sherry's 50th Birthday

Black Point, Exuma, Bahamas  (January 13-17, 2013)

Black Point was probably our favorite stop so far.    The anchorage was quiet and calm.  Everything we needed was in close proximity to the anchorage.  We had great company with David and Pat from s/v Sanctuary.  We would dinghy up to the local dock, tie off and walk a short distance to wherever it was we wanted to be. 

Water is free!  For those of you who have not been to the Bahamas, water is at a premium.  It is not uncommon to pay 40-50 cents per gallon for RO water from a roadside spigot.  Yes, a spigot, just like the one you hook your water hose to in the yard.  Here at Black Point, it is free.

Laundrymats also seem to be a luxury in the Bahamas and the cost can be steep, from $2.75 - $5.00 to wash a load and the same to dry.  Black Point’s Rockside Laundry is rumored to be the best in the Bahamas; we agree.  Not only is it very clean, but Ida Patton serves coffee, carrot cake and conch fritters while you enjoy free WiFi and wait for your laundry.  There is a small store inside for whatever you may have left on the boat.

Black Point’s Rockside Laundry

Lorraine’s Café is located next door to the Rockside Laundry so many just drop in a few loads of laundry and head to Lorraine’s for lunch.  Yes, more free WiFi.

Lorraine’s Café

There are no malls here and most every store, be it a grocery store, bread store, auto parts store, are all part of someone’s home.

Adderly’s Friendly Store

Did I say bread store?  Do not miss a loaf of Corene's coconut bread.  Her bread store is the house next door to DeShaMon’s Restaurant and has the BEST coconut bread.  It actually has a swirl of coconut in the middle of every slice.  Most would say $6.00 a loaf is expensive, but we have come somewhat accustomed to the prices here.

When we finished our daily chores, it was time to relax with fellow cruisers at Scorpio’s Restaurant & Bar, while enjoying more free WiFi.

One night, Jim left his backpack at Scorpio’s bar.  As soon as someone noticed it, they were hailing us on the VHF and even met us at the local dock to return it at 11:00 at night.

Scorpio’s Restaurant & Bar

I celebrated my 50^th birthday with Jim, David and Pat over an outstanding lobster dinner at DeShaMon’s Restaurant.  I prefer a heavier red wine; however, we were served a light sweet red wine, Lamothe’s Parrot Mellow Reserve, which I fell in love with.  Not only is it very pleasing, it is super cheap in the islands.  So cheap, I now have a case stowed on the boat.  A lot of the sailing community are wine drinkers and with all the happy hours, finding a cheap wine most like was a win-win for me and having some to share.  Enough about the wine and back to my birthday…am I really 50?  Hmmm, I don’t feel 50, but that is what the calendar reflects.

 

Dinner was followed by a surprise birthday cake from David & Pat.  It was over the top yummy and topped with a chocolate dipped strawberry. I was in heaven!!!

The local residents at Black Point are very friendly, everyone says “Hello” providing  a warm welcome to the sailing community. 

The town is located near the northern tip of Great Guana Cay and very much has the feel of the mid to late 60s in the United States.  Most of the homes are cinderblock or stucco and are painted in pastel pinks, blues and greens.  The children all play outside on skateboard scooters and bicycles while the ladies stand in the street to talk.  When the sun goes down, everyone goes home.

Brings back happy memories of my childhood...a long time ago.