Buck Island/Waterlemon Cay, St. John, US Virgin Island

Buck Island/Waterlemon Cay, St. John, USVI (June 9-11, 2013)

We sailed out of St. Thomas and hit Buck Island early for a morning snorkel with the sea turtles before heading to Waterlemon Cay.  Buck Island being a sea turtle sanctuary was well worth the stop, Hawksbill turtles were everywhere.  After a great time snorkeling, we had a quick lunch, treated the turtles to a shredded carrot and were off to Waterlemon Cay.

Although there were lots of boats on the water this day and we had to motor sail most of the way, we couldn't help but take more than just a moment to enjoy the view coming through Cruz Bay.  It was a beautiful day to be on the water and we were in heaven on earth.

Making our way into Leinster Bay, we lost our breath at the sight of all the islands visible from this vantage point. We caught a mooring ball (anchoring is not allowed here as it is a National Park) and sat back to quietly take in the beauty of this place.

Next morning, our ritual coffee in the cockpit was ever special as we were sitting in this gorgeous bay knowing we were soon heading over to Waterlemon Cay (a stones throw away) for what promised to be some great snorkeling.  It was better than we had imagined.  The reef was healthy and overflowing with an abundance of bright colored fish, coral and other marine life.  Some of the best snorkeling we have experienced.

Off the port stern of Dulcinea
Waterlemon Cay is to the left in the background

Coming out of the water, the sharp sting under my left arm was not to be mistaken with anything else, I had been stung by a box jellyfish. Wow, that hurt!  A quick ride back to the boat and some meat tenderizer did the trick.  What a relief!

Box Jellyfish Sting

Our next afternoon was spent cleaning the bottom of the boat.  We are always happy to be in the water, whether for pleasure or work.  Jim put together this cool little setup to keep our cleaning tools together, we each took a side of the boat and Dulcinea was algae and muck free in time for happy hour.

Keeping the scrubber and scraper together

A beautiful day!

While Jim knew what these guys were, I had no clue and was shocked when I came up under the side of the boat to see these alien fish with their heads stuck to the hull.

They are remoras, also known as "suckerfish."  They have slats atop their heads to create suction, allowing them to attach to other marine animals to catch a ride, seek protection and/or feed off remnants from the host.   Ewww!!!

Remoras

This was the end of our travels through the US Virgin Islands.  The British Virgin Islands are next in line.

St. Thomas - Charlotte Amalie, U.S. Virgin Islands

St. Thomas - Charlotte Amalie, US Virgin Islands (June 5-9, 2013)

When leaving Vieques, our plan was to make a stop in Culebra; however, with the wind direction and sea swells it allowed us to make a track to St. Thomas, so we set our sights and went cruising. 

On our approach to Charlotte Amalie, we met up with the Doubloon "Bones" Schooner, a "Pirate Ship" that runs snorkeling excursions. Apparently, below deck it is themed to include a brig and stocks.  We may need to check this out next time around.

"Bones" anchored in Charlotte Amalie

More Bones

One of the busiest ports of call in the Caribbean, the St. Thomas Harbor in Charlotte Amalie was once a haven for pirates, including Blackbeard and Bluebeard.

St. Thomas Harbor
Dulcinea (sporting her blue bimini) is just starboard of the front pirate ship

Overlooking Haulover Cut out into East Gregerie Channel

Charlotte Amalie at night

Fort Christian, built in the 1670s, is the oldest standing structure in the Virgin Islands. It has functioned as an administrative center, the home of the first Governors, a place of worship and the upper level at one time even became the local prison.  Eventually, the downstairs became the Fort Christian Museum.  Sadly, the fort closed in 2005 due to a stalled renovation project and has never reopened.

The local rooster

A hen and her chicks

Emancipation Park was named in commemoration of the July 3, 1848 emancipation of slaves in the Danish West Indies.

Conch Blower Statue
(Commemorates the 1848 emancipation of slaves)

Reproduction of the Liberty Bell
(Every U.S. state and territory has a copy of the Bell)

Liberty Bell Plaque

Denmark’s King Christian IX

Hotel 1829

More Flowers

The 99 steps, originally know as Store Taarne Gade, which means "Greater Tower Street," were built in the 1700s and lead to Blackbeard's Castle. The 99 steps are actually 103 steps.

99 Steps

Jim makes his way to the top

Sherry, half way there

The stairwell is bordered by colorful flowers

Ixora Coccinea, Pavetta

Ixora Coccinea, Flame of the Woods

The Three Queens fountain honors three historically important women: Queen Mary (Mary Thomas - the lead queen), Queen Agnes (Axeline Salomon), and Queen Mathilda (Mathilde McBean). These women led a successful 1878 demonstration, known as the "Fireburn," against the Danish Government demanding improved working and living conditions, and better wages. They carry in their hands: a lantern, a harvesting tool and flambeaux (torch). The sculpture was made by American artist Richard Hallier.  

A St. Croix historian, Wayne James, has uncovered documentation proving there were actually four "queens," not three as previously believed.  No less important to this labor demonstration is the fourth queen, Susanna Abrahamsen, nicknamed "Bottom Belly."

The Three Queens of The Virgin Islands

While Blackbeard’s Castle refers to pirate Blackbeard, it is actually the remains of the Charlotte Amalie watch tower built in 1679, originally named Skytsborg "sky tower."

Blackbeard, better known Edward Teach

CAPTAIN JAMES HOOK

THE VILLAIN OF "PETER PAN" HIS NEMESIS, HE IS SAID
TO HAVE BEEN BLACKBEARD'S BOSUN AND
THE ONLY MAN LONG JOHN SILVER EVER
FEARED. HE WEARS AN IRON HOOK IN PLACE OF
HIS HAND, WHICH WAS CUT OFF AND EATEN BY A
CROCODILE

Sailors or Pirates?

Long John Silver and his pet parrot, Captain Flint
(Fictional pirate from "Treasure Island")

Built in 1847,  Britannia House is one of the few remaining wooden residences from that period. Robert Boyd Lamb, her Britannic Majesty's Consul on the Island of St. Thomas, lived there with his family from 1858 to 1869.  The house was acquired by Blackbeard's in 2005 and features a collection of West Indian furniture from throughout the Caribbean. They were closed this day.

On a less historic note was our visit to Magic Ice, a Scandinavia-inspired sub-zero attraction located in an old warehouse where the walls and sculptures are made of transparent ice.

Sixteen famous artists from around the world created this world class ice art, known as “art below zero.”  Among them are award winning artists in ice carving, painting, and sculpting in sand and stone.

Jim is ready to cool down

And so is Sherry

Wall Art

Star Wars and Led Zeppelin

Skull & Cross Bones
Maybe we shouldn't have had those shots at the Ice Bar

A "Very" Cool Couple

Life Around Us

Expecting this Guy in a Few Months

"Cool" in My Flip Flops

Looks Like Jim May Be Stuck to The Bar...Cheers!

The Ice King

And His Queen

Sailing on Thick Ice

A Goodbye Kiss

Vieques, Puerto Rico

Vieques, Puerto Rico (June 2-5, 2013)
 

Our sail from Palmas del Mar to Vieques was a motor sail all the way.  Not only were the seas ROUGH, but the winds were up and DEAD ON OUR NOSE!  We were getting nowhere fast.  Our first planned stop was  Puerto Real; however, we thought it looked awfully rough so we ducked into Ensenada Sun Bay.  We anchored and after a nap decided the anchorage was not only rolly, but the surge was hitting us from multiple angles.  We were miserable and so decided to up anchor and move to the far end of the island, to Ensenada Honda (not Ensenada Honda in Culebra--these are two different places).

 

Up until May 1, 2003, three-quarters of the island of Vieques was used by the U.S. Navy for bombing practice, war games and the dumping of old munitions. That portion of the island is now open to cruisers as long as you don't go beyond the high tide mark. There still are many areas where cruisers are advised not to anchor due to the possibility of unexploded ordinance on the bottom.  Nothing like setting your anchor on a little TNT.  We were careful to follow our cruising guides and had no trouble.

What we found was a nice VERY large and VERY remote anchorage, no other boats...ZERO.  We were once again all alone.  The first night it felt a little odd being that alone in the world, but by the second day we were crazy enjoying the solitude.  Turn up the Bose and dance naked!  We had no plans to go to shore so we spent our days swimming around the boat and, yes, relaxing.

Having spent two months in Puerto Rico, on June 5, it was time to say goodbye and head to the U.S. Virgin Islands.